When I opened up the controller, I found out that the rear shoulder buttons don't have any springs in them and that this sound was caused by the button's plastic hitting the back of the shell. My friend also received one of these controllers and described it as a 'springy' sound. The back shoulder buttons were pretty good, but made a bit of a click when I pressed them down. I liked how they felt better than the Z button on the actual GameCube controller. The Z/L and Z/R shoulder buttons on the Battle Pad felt nice.
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By comparison to the Classic Controller Pro, the Hori Battle Pad didn't have this issue at all, but compared to the GameCube controller, it was noticeable. I had the same issue (much more extreme, of course) when switching to that controller due to the new hand position.
CAN GAMECUBE CONTROLLER FOR WII U BE USED ON A GAMECUBE PRO
When the Classic Controller Pro came out, I switched to it because I wanted to have a replaceable controller and figured that the GameCube controller would be discontinued soon (boy, was I wrong). Unfortunately, this puts the analog stick a bit too far to the right of the left edge of the controller and moves your hand position enough to throw off muscle memory. The top of the analog stick was slightly higher than the one on an original GameCube controller, and oddly, to make up for the increased D-Pad size, the area around the analog stick and buttons was expanded slightly. Unplugging and reconnecting the controller, and in the case of the wireless WaveBird controller, turning the controller off and back on, will also force a recalibration.The main drawback of this controller was, surprisingly, the main Analog stick. Holding down X, Y and start/pause for three seconds at any time will recalibrate the controller. Like most analog controllers, the GameCube controller self-calibrates when the console is switched on, setting the current analog stick and L and R buttons' positions as "neutral," which may cause problems if the controls are not actually in their neutral position during calibration. This works by means of a dual-sensor system inside the controller, a slider piece, which is moved by pressing down on the shoulder button and a separate button press pad at the base. This serves as two additional buttons on the controller without the need to actually add physical buttons. In digital mode, it will register it as digital only when fully depressed. In analog mode, it has an additional 'click' when fully depressed. The "L" and "R" shoulder buttons the main innovation, have both digital and analog capabilities. On the top of the controller there are two analog shoulder buttons marked "L" and "R", as well as one digital one marked "Z". The start/pause button is in the middle of the controller. Below those, there is a yellow "C" stick, which often serves different functions, from controlling the camera, to one similar to that of the right analog stick on a DualShock 2 controller. On the right are four buttons a large green "A" button in the center, a smaller red "B" button to the left, an "X" button to the right and a "Y" button to the top. The primary analog stick is on the left, with the D-pad below it. It totals eight buttons, two analog sticks and a D-pad.
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The standard GameCube controller is a standard wing grip design, and is designed to fit well in one's hands. Also available are extensions for the controllers, if the length of the cable is not long enough. Various other companies have made their own versions of the gamecube controller that can be used on the Gamecube or Wii, but it is recommended that you only use officially licensed Nintendo products. Nintendo has made a wireless version, the Wavebird. There are a variety of colors that it comes in, including purple, platinum, and orange. The Gamecube controller is the controller for the Nintendo Gamecube, and can be used on the Wii to play Gamecube games.